Woven fabric



(Specimens.)

D. B. KEER. WOVEN FABRIC Patented Dec. 3, 1889.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID B. KERR, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

WOVEN FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 416,225, dated December 3, 1889. Application filed August 8, 1888l Serial Not 282,291. (Specimens.)

To all whom, t may concern,.-

Be it known that I, DAVID B. KEER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvementin Woven Fabrics; and I do hereby declare that the following, taken in connection with theannexed drawings, is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, and is sufficient to enable others skilled as weavers to practice my invention.

The object of my invention is to apply to a greater variety of woven goods the capacity of ornamental shading to woven figured fabrics by the interweaving of warp and weft threads different in color, explained in Patent No. 353,790, granted to nie December 7, 1886. In said Letters Patent my invention is there described as consisting in the co1nbination of two Wai-ps of the same color, mounted each on a separate beam,with two or more colored weft-threads. The warp-threads are so arranged in the loom-harness as to work in pairs, with a binder warp-thread in the center of each pair.7

My present improvementapplies to fabrics known to the trade as petit pointes, with satin face, and other goods composed of two fabrics different in texture which intersect each other to produce ornamental Igrounds and figures,`and also to fabrics with two figuring-warps, each of adifferent color, for the above purposes. Satin (twilled) fabrics, according to fineness, contain from one hundred to two hundred or more warp-threads per inch, which are operated singly for twilling purposes, and when combined with colored weft-threads form ornamental figures. The warp-threads are operated in sets of four or more threads and having two binder warpthreads between each set, thus forming ribs lengthwise of the cloth, the weft-threads forming ribs at right angles. The dots formed at the intersection of weft and warp constitute what is known as petit pointe. The figuring warp-threads thus obtain a duplex character-woven single to form satin, in

sets to form ribs and the outlines of figures, the binder warp-threads tying the two fabrics together.

The above describes the old way of weaving satin-face petit-pointe goods.

To accomplish my improvement, one binder warp-thread is placed in the center of each set 'for binding purposes. The binder warp threads, if of a different color from the weftthreads and of a thickness sufficient to partially 4-cover and darken the appearance of the weft-threads, will make a factor for shading as well as binding purposes, which will be readily understood by those skilled in fancy weaving, and by such persons it will be readily understood that a binder in the center of each pair, as specified and claimed in my patent, No. 353,790, though same in principle, would fail to produce the shading effect desired in satin-face goods.

VIn satin-face petit/pointe goods a fine weftthread is used to intersect the warp-threads in the entire width of the fabric, and forms what is known as the satin twill,7 which may be woven by heddles-five, eight, ten, or more, as required.

Fabrics made twilled by the intersection of the figuring weft-threads cannot be woven by heddles. I therefore use the jacquard, mounted with one hook to each thread of the pattern, and perforate the cards for twilling in single threads and in sets of four or more for the figure. A change of twill and pattern can thus be made at little expense. As described in Patent No. 353,790, I also, in this improved weave, mount all the figuring warpthreads on one beam and the binder warpthreads on another beam. rIhe binder warpthreadslf prefer to operate by heddles, thus number one heddle carrying odd numbers, 1, 3, 5, the.; number two heddle the even numbers, 2, 4, 6, dac. The weft-threads are inserted by a pick and pick-loom. Heddle number one is raised for all the wefts (one or more) required by the first line of the design, and number two heddle is raised for the wefts of the second line, and thus number one and number two heddle, alternately, to the end of the design. By changing number one heddle to the even numbers of the design and number two to the odd numbers a marked change is effected in the shading of figures.

The manner of arranging the warp and weft threads in my present improvement is fully shown in the accompanying drawings, and which drawings form a part of this specifcation.

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Figure 1 represents a face View of a weave having the figuring warp-threads in sets of four, and a binder warp-thread in the center of each set, and showing a satin-face twill at the lower left-hand corner, and a shading by the interweaving of weft and binder warp at the upper right-hand corner. Fig. 2 represents a cross-section of Fig. 1. on a line of the upper shot of weftin Fig. 1. Fig'. 3 represents a face View of a weave having the figuring warp-threads in sets of four and a binder warp-thread in the center of each set, and showing a satin-face twill at the lower left-hand corner, and a shading by the interweaving of weft, figuring, and binder-warps at the upper right-hand corner. Fig. 4 represents a cross-section of Fig. 3 on a line of the upper shot of weft in Fig. 3. Fig. 'represents a face view of a weave having the figuring warp-threads in sets of four and a binder warp-thread in the center of each set, and showing a satin-face twill at the lower left-hand corner, and a shading by the interweaving of weft, figuring, and binder warpthreads at the upper right-hand corner. Fig. 6 represents a cross-section of Fig. 5 on a line of the upper shot of weft inI Fig. 5. Fig. 7 represents a face view of a weave having the iiguring warp-threads in sets of six and a binder warp-thread in the center of each set, and shows L satin twill at the lower left-hand corner and a shading by the interweavmg of the weft figuring and binder warps at the upper right-hand corner. Fig. 8 represents across-section of Fig. 7 on aline of the upper shot of weft in Fig. 7.

Referring to the drawings, similar letters and figures of reference refer to similarparts throughout the several views.

A represents the weft-threads- These wefts may all be of one color, or they may be of two or more colors, and woven pick and pick.

1 represents the binder warp-threads; 2, the figuring warp-threads. The binder warpthreads l prefer to be finer than the figuring .warp-threads. The figuring warp-threads l prefer to mount in the harness of a jacquard sin gle-that is, a hook for each figuring warpthreadand arranging them in sets of four or six, with a binder warp-thread 1 in the center of each set. The binder warp-threads l prefer to mount in two heddle-.frames We will suppose in selecting colors for one of the weaves shown in the drawings the figuring warp-threads 2 will be a dark blue, and black for the binder warp-threads 1, and red for* the wefts A. I prefer the color of the binder-warp to be in strong contrast with the color of the weft, to give effect in shading the figures. The blue figuring warp-threads 2, if twilled, as shown in the lower left-hand corner of Figs. 1, 3, 5, and 7, will cover the weft A and binder-warp 1, making a satin ground. The weft and binder warps show in the drawings where twilled for a satin ground; but in a fabric beaten up in a finished state the weft and binder warp will not show on a satin face. It so desired, the warps and wefts may be so interwoven as to make aterry or damask ground, and, it so desired, the figuring warpthreads may be of alternate colors, and two or more wefts of different colors may be used, and these war-ps and wefts so interwoven as will produce shaded figures on a satin, terry, damask, or other ground, and such fabrics may be produced by any person skilled in the artof weaving by following this specification.

Having as above fully explained my improvement and the best manner to use the same, l wish it to be understood that l do not claim, broadly. shading of figures by the intei-weaving of warp and Wett threads difterent in colors, nor a satin, terry, damask, or other ground weave; but 1 In a woven figured fabric, the combination of figuring warp-threads woven in sets of four or six with a single binder warp-thread in the center of each set, and weft-threads different in color from the warp-threads, as shown, described, and for the purpose specified.

` DAVID '13. KERR.

lVitnesses:

JOHN SHINN, JOSEPH P. Cone. 

